November 2019 Print


'Tis the season for gratitude and we'd like to take this opportunity to thank you, our readers. You are the gardeners who make South Carolina more beautiful and sustainable.

Thank you for all that you do in your own gardens and your communities!

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Calendar of Events

  • Sunday, November 24, 2019  5:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.: Christmas Tree Lighting at the State House, Columbia - free

  • Friday, December 6, 2019 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.: How your club can become a 501(c)3 under GCSC- First Friday Conference Call - Dial 515-604-9300  Conference Code: 942735 to participate.

  • December 10, 2019 - All GCSC Award Applications due

  • Landscape Design School,  January 13 - 14, 2020, register here:

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President's Message

November, the invisible dividing line between South Carolina’s long season of heat and our shorter season of cold and freezing temperatures. In his book, The Forest Unseen, David Haskell calls this month “the great seasonal threshold.”  As a coastal state, November in South Carolina can feel more like a tidal wave as winter’s bitter temperatures crash down on us in a repeated onslaught, followed by the ebbs of the sunny afternoons.  In the same way that giant swells trick trusting beach walkers, November’s bouncing temperatures often catch the South Carolina gardener by surprise, leaving us to scramble around at dusk in search of plankets to cover our tender, potted 'children'.

Why is it that we are eternally caught by surprise? Perhaps, like most things, we are resistant to accept that our long growing season must end and therefore trick ourselves into believing summer will linger as long as we want fresh tomatoes on our salads. Fortunately for us, nature is more savvy than we are. Many of our native plants and trees have been preparing for cold weather all spring and summer, storing excess sugars and water deep within their cells. As nighttime temperatures drop, leaves begin to seal themselves on their underside to slow down intake of water and trap sugars and other weather-resistant chemicals. These chemicals cause color changes that we all know and love as the signs of autumn. Reds and purples are anthocyanin that protect the leaf a bit like antifreeze. Oranges are carotenes and yellows are xanthophyll, chemicals that have always been there all along but are only now revealed with the disappearance of chlorophyll. Soil research suggests that these chemicals continue to feed and protect the plant when the leaves finally drop, sometimes even acting as repellants against competing spring plant growth.   

Deep within the stems and root tissue, these same sugary chemicals insulate cells, protecting hardy perennials while tender perennials and bulbs let go of everything above ground, moving all of their precious food cache into their root systems. That’s why root vegetables and collard greens get sweeter after a chill.

Of course, as gardeners we like to think we can trick our plants into thinking summer is endless and so we move them indoors, supplement light, and even feed them to force production. Plants know better and will often fight back by dropping leaves anyway or succumbing to fungal, aphid, or mite infestation. This is nature’s way of telling us that our secret strategy has been revealed. Just the same, when plants are brought in way before a frost event, our efforts are sometimes rewarded enough to brag as we serve Christmas tomatoes.  Perhaps the plants are just as pleased as children who avoid the crashing wave to scamper among the shore a little longer, or maybe they are simply meeting us halfway with a good night kiss before their winter’s nap. 

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Garden FOR Life

Leave the Leaves

There’s a new buzz phrase sweeping mainstream gardening culture. You’ll read it in all the blogs and memes, and hear it on just about every podcast. No one knows exactly who coined the phrase but almost every garden scientist and garden communicator has adopted it as their own. 

Leave the leaves. 

Every good, organic gardener knows that leaves are nature’s gift back to the tree and most refer to this autumn gift as the carbon layer and not by its lesser name, leaf litter.

In natural systems like forests, when leaves fall, they form a barrier between the earth-warmed roots and the cold air temperatures.  As layers form, they capture air in between further increasing heat retention, like a thick blanket sheltering the root system. The multi-layered blanket also creates an opportunity for a habitat. Many of our favorite species call leaf litter home including butterflies, ladybugs, moths, solitary bees, beetles, and even lightning bugs. Most hibernate in the leaf layer through the cold winter months while others deposit eggs that will hatch in springtime. Many of the eggs, galls and cocoons were already on the leaves before they fell. 

As rain and radiant heat soften the leaves’ outer layers, micro-organisms move in to eat away at the soft tissue still left between the veins of each leaf. These micro-organisms begin a food web that includes bacteria, fungus, earthworms, beetle larva, stick bugs, earwigs, and other beneficial insects.  It’s a magical factory of different workers all doing their part to recycle the vital components of the leaf and convert the tree nutrients back into soil nutrients. Up to 80% of a tree’s nutrients exist within its leaves and as they attract mycellium and other living organisms into the carbon layer, vital nutrients are added and made more digestable to tree roots. 

In natural forest systems, leaves typically revert to soil within one to two years.  During that time period, other leaves fall creating an endless buffet for the food web. The byproduct of this continuous cycle is nutrient dense soil full of living micro-organisms that feed the roots of the tree.  In the words of Barbara Kingsolver, “the forest eats itself and lives forever.”

Leaf mulch is referred to as the carbon layer because most of its volume consists of carbon in various forms. As decomposition occurs, carbon dioxide is released into the air while other carbon molecules are diverted back into the soil as carbohydrates, proteins, minerals, and other living organisms. The longer the leaves take to break down, the more carbon is “captured.” Carbon capture refers to the amount of carbon dioxide that is NOT going back into the atmosphere. The goal is to slow down the process as much as possible to offset the excess from other rapid-release sources like fossil fuels and farm byproducts.

For the home gardener, the carbon layer is typically the most controversial as so many gardeners want their yards and gardens to look well-tended and, therefore, consider leaves a messy look. One solution is to clear pathways and open spaces by adding those leaves to compost piles while allowing a naturally occurring leaf layer around shrubbery, hedgerows, and around trees. Most trees and shrubs drop enough of their own leaves that no supplemental layers are required. 

With the new trend of shrinking lawns to increase natural habitats, shrubbery, hedgerows, and perennial beds get wider and more dense, providing ample cover for leaves to decompose out of sight.  In addition to increased carbon capture, enlarged habitats benefit pollinators, birds, and other desirable species.

Of course, most gardens are controlled environments that do not possess the same natural balance as forests and therefore require awareness of the hazards of disease. This may be caused by spores already present in the leaves that flourish once dropped into the warm, damp environment. In this case, diseased leaves and rotten fruit are removed from the area before a healthy layer is allowed to form. 

Leaves can also be used to shelter bulbs, grow root crops, kill a weedy area of your garden before replanting, or create natural pathways through the garden.

In GardenFORLife gardens, leaves set the table for a food web feast.

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Month by Month Gardening

 November's Gardening Tips

In the last edition of The Scoop, we talked about how important it is to know your USDA zone. South Carolina’s plant zones range from 7a to 9a. Remember, this is based on an area’s LOW temperatures and can also forecast an approximate date of your first freeze. Plan ahead by gathering frost blankets, old sheets, or old tablecloths. Have them available and listen to your local weather reports for temperature predictions and freeze warnings. Use your frost blankets to protect your winter vegetable gardens, container gardens, and to help tender plants survive a cold snap. Tender shrubs can be wrapped in burlap or other commercial agricultural fabric if a hard or prolonged freeze is expected. Remove the fabric when the temperatures warm.  Never use plastic! Plastic does not breathe and can result in high temperatures that can “cook” your plant.

Tidy up the garden by removing fallen flowers, fruit and other plant debris that might overwinter pests and diseases.  In your pollinator beds, seed heads become winter food for birds and empty stalks become nurseries for bees. If you must remove, consider moving seedheads to birdfeeding stations and sticks to your backyard wildpile where they can overwinter in peace.

Pull weeds and unwanted plants;  if you compost, place invasive plants/weeds in a covered garbage container, not in the compost pile.

Fall is the best time for planting trees and shrubs, and it is also a good time to analyze the landscape and decide if new or interesting native trees, shrubs, vines, bulbs, perennials, or cold-hardy annuals, are needed to add color and interest to the garden.  Here are some ideas for planting in November:

Choose trees for their fall, winter, or spring interest. For example, the peeling bark of the ornamental Natchez crape myrtle or native river birch adds interest in the winter landscape. Another show stopper in fall and winter is the native holly, in many varieties, producing red berries that are not only lovely but provide food for birds. The sugar maple and service berries can also add a more dramatic interest in the landscape.

Plant Roses and Camellias now!  For established roses, allow the rose hips to remain on the plant for winter interest and to feed migrating birds. If you have a low, damp spot in your garden, consider rosa palustrus, a show stopper native rose that produces petite pink flowers with a delicious scent.

Remember to buy or build trellises to support your vines.

Fall is a good time to divide perennials and put your bulbs to bed! Native crinums as well as ornamental crocuses, daffodils, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, and snowflakes may be planted in formal beds, containers, or in naturalized plantings.  As we have mentioned previously, fertilize the bulbs now rather than wait for spring. Some bulbs can be dug up and stored, but to protect hardy bulbs you have left in the ground, spread a layer of mulch over them to protect them from a hard freeze.

Ornamental grasses not only add interest and fall color, but also provide winter and early spring food for birds. According to the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, native options include switchgrass, indiangrass, eastern gamagrass, big bluestem and little bluestem. 

Plant pansies, snap dragons, sweet William, pinks, and violas. 
Also, take plant cuttings from treasured annuals in your garden and root for next year’s garden. *

Don’t forget to bring in house plants, orchids, Christmas cactus, and other tender plants for the winter. Be sure to check for insects that may be inhabiting the plant, before bringing them inside.

The month of November is not too late to add trees, shrubs, bulbs, vines, perennials and annuals to your garden. Just remember to water any new addition well. Also, remember to search the South Carolina native plant database for ideas to plant and enrich our landscape as we Garden FOR Life.

Don’t forget to hydrate evergreens! If autumn has been dry, deep soaks in the fall are important.

Finally, make sure you are well stocked with good teas and those books you’ve been saving to enjoy! Even gardeners need to be winterized!!

*Many of the plants mentioned in this article do well in zone 8A, the Coastal Region.  Be sure to contact your local Clemson Extension office or a local, reputable nursery for advice regarding plants best suited for your area.


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Taking a Soil Sample

All successful gardens begin with a soil test, however, you may have some questions as to why, how, and when you should test your soil.

There are certain nutrients that are important for plant growth, and a soil test is used to determine the levels of these nutrients in the soil.

For $6 per sample, you can have your soil analyzed by the Clemson University Agricultural Service Laboratory. The reliable, science-based report yields nutrient levels, soil pH, and standard recommendations for your particular crop such as trees, shrubs, annuals, perennials, and the vegetable garden. These recommendations allow you to customize fertilizer and lime applications to your plants needs.

You may ask, “Can I just buy a soil kit at the box store and get accurate results?”  The short answer is “no.” For quality control, the Clemson University Agricultural Service Lab sends two check samples daily to be analyzed in addition to samples at the beginning, middle, and end of each run. Further, to ensure the accuracy of soil testing, the Clemson Agricultural Service Lab participates in a quarterly check program with the Agricultural Laboratory Proficiency (ALP) in which ALP submits five soil samples for routine testing. So, no, you cannot get accurate results from that store-bought soil kit.   To take a virtual tour and to learn more, visit Clemson’s Agricultural Service Laboratory online at

Now that you’ve decided to submit a soil sample, how do you get started with the process?

First, gather your supplies, including a garden trowel or shovel, and a clean plastic bucket. You will need to sample each section of your yard separately for best results. For example, take samples from the turf area, from shrub and perennial planting beds, and from the vegetable garden individually. A single soil sample consists of 10-12 sub-samples from a specific area mixed into one large composite sample. Samples should include soil from the surface to a depth of 6-8 inches in planting beds and gardens, but only to a depth of 2-4 inches for lawns and pastures. Each sample covers an area up to 10 acres.

You should sample a couple of months before you intend to plant. This allows sufficient time for lime to react with the soil, if it is required, to raise the pH of your soil. It also allows time for other nutrients, if needed, to be fully incorporated into the soil. Learn more about soil testing by visiting the Clemson Home and Garden Information and reading the fact sheet at

Submit your sample at your local Clemson Extension Office along with the $6 per sample fee.  Be sure to bring a full two-cup sample to the office to ensure the lab has enough material to run the full suite of tests on your soil.  Samples should be dry when submitted.  If you don't have one of the brown paper sample bags, don't worry, just place samples in plastic bags or other plastic containers and they will transfer the soil into a bag for you. You will receive your soil test report from Clemson’s Ag Service Lab, via hard copy or e-mail, 8-10 business days after submission. 

Check with your local extension agent for more information about soil sample drop off sites.

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Native Plant of the Month


It's not what you think!

Solidago spp., commonly known as Goldenrod, includes over 150 flowering herbaceous, perennial plants in the aster family, Asteraceae.  South Carolina has approximately 28 species of goldenrod,  usually found in open areas such as fields, meadows, and roadsides. 

Goldenrod gets the blame for the infamous fall allergy attack, but the culprit is actually ragweed.  Both plants are members of the Asteraceae family and grow in the same place and bloom at the same time. Goldenrod has pretty yellow flowers, while ragweed has a small, green bloom that is difficult to see. Goldenrod flowers contain nectar and large, heavy pollen-filled grains; whereas, ragweed flowers do not contain nectar and the winds can blow the light weight pollen granules for miles.

In 2003, Governor Mark Sanford signed legislation making tall Goldenrod (Solidago altissima) the official state wildflower of South Carolina after garden clubs voted to give this native plant the honor. In recent years, many new cultivars with showy blooms have made it to our local nurseries.  Native plants should be prioritized when creating a pollinator habitat.   Nonnative species can provide complementary benefits; however, native plants offer the best adaptation to their environment and have co-evolved with the bees and wildlife of their respective regions.   

Goldenrod flowers from late summer to fall.  Most notable cultivars have lanced leaves and big yellow flowers, although in some cultivars the blooms range from white to yellow.  Goldenrod develops yellow, fragrant flowers densely packed in pyramid-shaped clusters on top of the plant. Flowers contain both male and female reproductive parts. The Goldenrods are among the most important late-season pollinator plants and attract honey bees, native bees, solitary wasps, butterflies, and moths.  Many beekeepers depend on goldenrod as the primary winter food source for their colony.  Goldenrod honey is typically dark and thick, with a somewhat pungent aroma.  The average sugar concentration in the nectar of some goldenrod species has been reported at 33%.

Native Americans reportedly proclaimed goldenrod “sun medicine” because of its bright color and medicinal qualities.  A few of the health benefits include reducing pain and swelling, stopping muscle spasms, relieving gout, joint pain, arthritis, as well as eczema and other skin conditions. It is also known for its actions as a diuretic. 

All aerial parts of the plant can be used.  The flowers are edible and make attractive garnishes on salads.  Flowers and leaves (fresh and dried) are used to make an anise flavored tea.  Leaves can be cooked like spinach and added to soups, stews, or casseroles.  Goldenrod can be infected with a toxic fungus, therefore use caution when harvesting the leaves for consumption.

Thomas Edison experimented with goldenrod to make rubber. In the 1930’s Edison was able to extract rubber from the goldenrod plants, which it exudes naturally, and Henry Ford gave Edison a Model T with tires made from the rubber of goldenrod.  Edison turned his research on using goldenrod as a source for rubber over to the government, who continued that research until synthetic rubber, which is cheaper to produce, was discovered during WWII. The discovery of synthetic rubber ended the idea of using it as a source for rubber since the rubber extracted was not durable enough for commercial use.

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East Piedmont District

Bedtime For Bulbs!

The seasonal transition from summer to fall seems to have happened overnight!

Many of us in the East Piedmont District are scrambling to trim, clear, aerate, and over seed while we wait for fall colors followed by an avalanche of leaves to manage! Although we are focused on fall clean-up and winterizing our gardens, let’s not forget to think ahead to spring and the beautiful rainbow of colors that bulbs can provide in our gardens. Nothing announces the arrival of spring like the bright yellow faces of daffodils, the pretty pastels of tulips, and the rich blues and purples of iris, to name just a few.

Planting bulbs is a fast and easy project that can be easily combined with a number of other tasks on a gardener’s weekend to-do list. There are so few issues to consider, bulbs can be enjoyed by all gardeners. Planting bulbs is a wonderful activity to do with children. A local preschool, that includes gardening in their curriculum, has their little ones kiss each bulb and say, “goodnight” as they place them in the soil for their winter “nap!”

Bulbs can be planted just about anywhere in your garden as long as the soil drains well.  They should be planted as soon as the ground is cool and the evening temperatures average between 40 and 50 degrees F, and at least 6 to 8 weeks before the ground freezes.

Dig the soil at least 8 inches deep so that it is loose and workable. If you have chosen to plant your bulbs somewhere other than an established garden bed, you may want to add organic material such as peat moss or compost, and perhaps a slow release fertilizer. Check the  recommendations on the package label to determine how deep, and how far apart, the bulbs should be planted. As a general rule, larger bulbs are planted about 8 inches deep and smaller varieties about 5 inched deep. Position the bulbs pointy side up and back fill the hole with soil. Lightly compress the soil, but do not pack the soil. Be sure to water to stimulate root growth. Unless you live in an area with low precipitation in the winter, there is no need to water continuously.

Now it’s time to anticipate the beautiful colors that bulbs bring to our gardens after a long, dark winter. There is so much potential and opportunity for design!  Plant bulbs in groups or clusters, create a border or scatter them randomly, and use things like flower color and stem height to determine placement. Don’t forget, bulbs do well in pots and containers and can be a beautiful pop of color for a porch, deck, or window sill. Enjoy!

“If one daffodil is worth a thousand pleasures, then one is too few!”

William Wordsworth

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West Lowcountry District

Gardening Tips from the West Lowcountry District

Gardeners often take their clues for the change of seasons based on what the local home and garden supply store has for sale in their garden shop. By this time of year, the spring/summer annuals are sold out and, for the most part, they look pretty sad in the garden. Now is the time to clean those old and tired plants out of the garden and put them in your compost pile. The perennials, especially those with seed heads, can be left for the birds to enjoy over the winter.  Now is the time to plant new trees and shrubs so they can establish a good root systems. You may also prune those existing trees and shrubs, but first go to to be sure you are pruning at the proper time.

Fall and winter vegetables, such as collards, mustard, and spinach, can be started now.  In some areas, lettuce can be started and will grow until the first freeze. Also check to see which herbs will do well in your area in the fall and winter garden.

The winter garden doesn’t have to be dull and drab, there is always something that will grow, adding color and interest.

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Gardening for Pollinators

Salvia – A Great Plant for Pollinators

The genus Salvia belongs to a very large family of plants known as Lamaiacea, or mints.  It is the largest genus in that family, which contains about 900 species. Other genera in the mint family include Agastache, Lavandula, Mentha, Monarda, and Nepeta. These plants are highly aromatic and all share common characteristics such as square stems and opposite leaves.

Hybridization is common among many species. Some perennial favorite cultivars include ‘Amistad’ (S. guarantica) and ‘Hot Lips’ (S. microphylla).  Some favorite annuals cultivars are, ‘Lady in Red’ (S. coccinea), ‘Burgundy’ (S. splendens x), and ‘Faye Chapel’ (S. splendens x).   

Clemson University has this to say about Salvia: Salvias have been growing rapidly in popularity in recent years. Salvias (also know as sages) have gained their new fame because they flower for a long period; do well in hot, dry conditions; and they provide an incredible variety of fragrance, bloom habit and color. Salvias include some of our best summer-blooming annuals and perennials.”

Many gardeners associate plants in the genus Salvia with full sun, surviving in drought and semi-arid, native lands. While many do fit this picture, most appreciate loamy, fertile soil, although some require more water than others and can thrive in partial shade. Compost is often used as an amendment for those who have sandy soils.

Brazilian Sage (S. guaranitica), Pineapple Sage (S. elegans), ’Victoria Blue’ (S. farinacea) and ‘Black & Blue (S. guaranitica), are pollinator-friendly plants that provide an incredible variety of fragrance, bloom habit, and color, making them a sure favorite in anyone’s garden.  Salvia is deer-resistant, but the bees, butterflies, moths and hummingbirds love them, since they provide nectar for these important pollinators.  Autumn Sage (S. greggii), Mexican Bush Sage (S. leucantha), Mountain Sage (S. microphylla) and Pineapple Sage (S. elegans), all have blossoms that are just right for the tongue-like proboscis of the butterfly or moth. Overall, Salvia is particularly tempting to the following groups of butterflies: Swallowtails, Sulphers, Skippers and Brushfoots, (a category that includes Monarchs, Mourning Cloaks and Gulf Fritillaries). Remember, beautiful butterflies and moths come from caterpillars. If your goal is to create a butterfly garden, learn to identify and grow the plants on which the female butterflies lays its eggs, and be willing to tolerate the caterpillar’s feeding habits.

To provide an optimal wildlife habitat, refrain from using herbicides and pesticides in the garden. Our natural environment is composed of communities which are interdependent. Plants, animals, birds, butterflies, and other insects depend upon each other for survival, so as one species is pollinated, another is fed. Diversity is important to ensure that these basic requirements are met during the season. Remember, the four basic needs for wildlife survival are similar to our own; food, water, shelter, and individual space. Butterflies do not like a tidy garden where all plant debris is removed. A small amount of brush or firewood located near the garden gives them protection for hiding from predators and allows a place of shelter during rainy weather.  Some even may winter over in the crevices.      Questions or more information about this article can be obtain from Randy Collins, Homemakers Garden Club, Aiken, SC.

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Special Events

2019 Holiday House Tour and Bazaar

Come home for the holidays to Riverland Terrace!

Five beautiful homes decorated for the holiday season will be open to visitors Saturday, December 14th, in the Riverland Terrace Garden Club’s Holiday House Tour and Bazaar. Visitors will be treated to a peek inside these family homes decorated by the owners and members of the garden club for the Christmas season. Established in 1925, Riverland Terrace is one of the oldest neighborhoods on James Island and is known for its historic “Avenue of Oaks,” containing an estimated 72 live oaks, some of which are believed to be a century old.

Here is a sample of what you will see on the tour:

  • The comfortable farmhouse on Plymouth Avenue was home to the same family for 72 years before it changed hands in 2015. The new owners were charmed by their home’s history and found children’s growth charts penciled on the pantry walls and the autographs of young men of the British Royal Navy in a bedroom, where they were guests during World War II.
  • An old-fashioned Christmas in New England matches the style of the two-story cedar shakes home on Stono Drive which underwent a major renovation last year. Situated on the river, for which the street is named, the house has amazing water views and sunsets.
  • One of the earliest houses built in the Terrace is on St. Lukes Drive and was constructed in 1927 using plans from the Gustav Stickley Company of New Jersey. The house retains its original floor plan and beautiful interior woodwork with original finishes.
  • The Riverland Terrace Windmill at 78 Plymouth Avenue will also be open for visitors. It was built on the banks of Wappoo Creek in the 1930s by John Roessler, who was impressed by the working windmills he saw in France during World War I. The windmill was given to Riverland Terrace Garden Club by a later owner who wanted to build a house on the property. It was moved to its present site in 2000.

Tour hours are 11:00 am-4:00 pm. The tour headquarters is at Bethany United Methodist Church, 1853 Maybank Highway, where shoppers can browse a bazaar featuring Charleston craftsmen selling handmade jewelry, pottery, artwork, tote bags, local honey and more. Garden club members also will be selling homegrown plants.

Advance tickets are $25. Tickets at the door are $30. Purchase your tickets from any RTGC member or contact Joan Dunning at [email protected] or 843.324.8754. Check the Riverland Terrace Garden Club Facebook page for more information.

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Guidelines for Submitting Articles and Information to The Scoop

  • Deadline for submission to “The Scoop” is the 15th day of the month prior to publication.
  • All gardening information must include science-based research.
  • Please DO NOT submit articles written in the first person, “home-remedies,” folklore, etc.
  • All copy will be reviewed and edited for grammar, spelling, and content. The editors reserve the right to condense the articles as needed.  
  • Photos must be submitted in jpeg or png format.
  • Please submit your articles via e-mail to Jan Litton ([email protected]) and Rue Lucas ([email protected]).
  • There are no restrictions on font style or size as all submissions will be formatted to the layout of the newsletter template.
  • Emphasis for articles submitted should be given to GardenFORLife Topics, including, but not limited to:

·       Organic, Sustainable, Biodiverse, and Permaculture methods
·       Pollinator host and nectar plants
·       Beneficial insects
·       Adaptive/Container methods 
·       Xeriscaping, Rain Gardening, and Environmentally Adaptive planning
·       Landscaping for Pollinators and Wildlife

  • District Directors and Chairs may also submit timely notices of upcoming events, deadlines, etc.
  • All other projects, programs, awards, advertisements, etc. are to be submitted to the SC Gardener Editor. 

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This Month's Contributors

Thank you for your contributions to this month's edition of The Scoop. Without you, this newsletter would not be possible! 

Trish Bender, President, The Garden Club of SC

Susan Berry, Dogwood Garden Club, Orangeburg, SC

Randy Collins, Home Makers Garden Club, Aiken, SC

Gwen Corinth, Riverland Terrace Garden Club, Charleston, SC

Gina Ginther, East Piedmont District

Anna Sheets, West Lowcountry District

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